And Prague Lived On Happily Ever After

And Prague Lived On Happily Ever After

Our last full day in Prague received us with the most beautiful weather we'd had yet. We crossed the river once more, this time taking a tram. It was fun to hitch a ride on one of these, first introduced to the city in the late 1800's. They are clean, comfortable, and a great way to see the city when your feet are just a tad bit sore from three days of walking.

It was almost too glorious outside to go into the Narodni Gallery, so we sucked in as much vitamin D as we could, and entered through the modern glass doors just as they opened.

This is the gallery where Mucha's Epic was housed before being sent to Tokyo. There are multiple National Galleries in the city, and we visited the Trade Fair Palace. It still has a lot to offer, from 19th century French painters to American Pop and Conceptual artists to Czech contemporary moving image artists.

There's a seemingly popular cafe in the gallery, which was packed with what looked like students working on their laptops. Wanting to find something a bit quiet and in search of a good bookstore I'd read about, we meandered on.

Unfortunately, Page Five was closed for inventory, but as if it was meant to be, directly across the street was a cafe calling our names.

The breakfasts that people were eating at Bistro 8 looked amazing and had we not already filled ourselves at the hotel buffet, would be grabbing a table and a menu. We stuck to the drinks. Vietnamese coffee for him, matcha latte for me.

I believe that I've said this before, but one of my favorite things to do when visiting a new place (besides eating) is to just wander. You'll always end up somewhere neat that is not necessarily in the travel books.

We found a walking path that took us along, but above the river. We followed it until its end, having the whole place to ourselves.

After so much walking and handholding, lunch is in order. Cafe Savoy was on my list and we arrived just in the knick of time, when the lunch rush was slowing down.

As soon as you walk in, you feel like you've left Prague and instead somehow magically landed in Paris. The restaurant was founded in 1893 and serves up classic French dishes.

Any establishment with a counter dedicated to crusty breads and homemade apple strudel is just fine by me.

After just a few minutes wait, we were guided upstairs to our table. 

We started with the best mushroom soup either of us had ever had.


Shortly thereafter, a flurry of waiters came by, one with my beef tartar prepared table-side and one with Tyler's steak complete with truffle shavings (heaven) and homemade french fries.


We did our best to finish our meals, but I just had to leave room for dessert. We shared an apple strudel and I had their famous hot chocolate while Tyler had a mocha latte.

Satiated beyond words, we walked down a quiet road adjacent to the river, where I found some of the prettiest buildings yet.

Back across the river a final time, we spotted the Dancing Ladies.

They are obviously much younger than their Baroque neighbors. They were designed by two Czech and Canadian architects and completed only 20 years ago. The ladies look pretty dazzling in the sunlight.

We had plans to catch a concert while in Prague, so we headed back to one of the main venues, passing Saint Wenceslaus Square again.

We bought tickets at the Obecní dům (Municipal House) and watched and listened to the Prague Music Orchestra play classics by Vivaldi, Mozart, Bach, and Mascagni. It was goose bump inducing.

There was no way that we were going to fit dinner into our stomachs, so we stopped into the cafe in the same building, Kavárna Obecní dům. 

We resisted the cake tray that made its rounds three times while we were there and ordered one last mulled wine each.

Prague was a dream. I had never even considered it until Tyler started wooing me with promises of good food (and beer), incredible architecture, rich history, and new adventures. It was everything I'd hoped for and so much more. We will return some day, that I have no doubts about.

In less than two weeks Tyler and I are off to Moscow again, but this time for nearly a week, rather than a couple of days. I should manage to get more than just a peek this time.